Cheddar Gorge climbing review
Cheddar Gorge in Somerset is perfect for climbers of all abilities. With hundreds of sport climbs (bolted routes) and a lot of trad climbs (setting your own anchor points using nuts and cams), there is something for everyone.
Before you rush to the Gorge there are a few things we recommend:
1. BMC membeshipr. This is required for any climber wanting to climb at the Gorge. It contains basic insurance. The cost to join the BMC online at the time of this review is £15 per person. Click here for BMC insurance.
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2. A guide book showing all the routes. The book we used was Cheddar Gorge Climbs by Martin Crocker. This book will give you information on the routes, which consists of their location and how to access them, the grade of the route and the number of bolts (sport climbs), the height, the name and a short description of the climb. There are a few rules you must abide by and this book will give you that information, for example, not all routes are open to climb all year round. This book will tell you the ones that are.
Click on the image of the book to buy it.
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Getting Ready |
3. Lead Climb training. You must be able to lead climb as, obviously, you have to lead climb the route to set the top rope. Recently, anchor rings have been added to the bolts at the belay station so the climber won’t have to set up their own anchor system, saving the climber time. Having obtained all these things, you are good to climb the Gorge.
It is the most accessible climbing location anywhere in the UK. A road runs right through the middle of the Gorge with multiple car parks and lay-bys dotted around. The down side to the accessibility is the noise from traffic which can make communication between you and your climbing buddy a little difficult.
The majority of the routes are extremely close to the road, some a little too close, so you won’t have to carry your kit far. At the bottom of the Gorge is the village of Cheddar where you will find all the amenities a climber needs, including a climbing shop.
Since our fist trip to the Gorge, we have been hooked. The beauty of the landscape, rock faces and local wildlife makes you feel like you're climbing in another country. The local climbers are extremely friendly if you follow the rules and etiquette.
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Lead Climbing on a sport route. Clipping quickdraw into a bolt and then the rope into the quickdraw |
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